After a couple of hours, the base of green, sappy wood - bamboo, I suppose - with some dusty, fruity florals hanging on in there, is really, really good.
But the shrill opening, like an animated, brightly coloured confectionery counter, commandeered by some frightening ninja lychees and a samurai watermelon, attacking your nose with a shower of sharp little citrus swords and badly-aimed berry nunchucks, is enjoyably strange but not enormously pleasant.
[By ANDREW]
[By ANDREW]
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