The relatively quiet launch of Van Cleef & Arpels' six-strong Extraordinaire selection in 2009, alongside 2008's Feerie and now this masculine offering in the so-called Haute Parfumerie line, is clearly designed as a revitalisation of the jewellery and watch creator's position in perfumery, in a tasteful 'stealth wealth' fashion but firmly in line with just about every other high end brand's approach to fragrance recently. From Hermes' Hermessences to Chanel's Exclusifs and Dior's Couturier line, it appears that expense and exclusivity are now essential if a brand wants to position its scents as far as possible from the tat churned out in the name of Paris Hilton or the like.
Midnight in Paris isn't particularly expensive or hard to come by but it certainly feels quite special - compared to most mainstream men's releases, that is. The flacon is beautifully-designed, especially 'cute' in the handy 40ml size, and the juice speaks of excellent quality.
But... I'd read reviews online comparing Midnight in Paris to Bvlgari Black, one of my all time favourites, and I'm afraid there's little more I can add to that. From the very first spray, this is simply a slightly more approachable version, minus the thrill of the 'rubber' notes that put some people off Bvlgari's 1998 masterpiece.
I've also read comparisons to Dior Homme but I don't get that at all. Apart from a sweetness and smelling nicely expensive, Midnight in Paris doesn't have that dusty, cocoa powder note. And anyway, Dior Homme is all about the iris and there's none here.
Midnight in Paris also bears a resemblance to Kenzo Peace Vintage Edition, the limited edition scent that was released to celebrate Kenzo's 20 years in perfumery. You can still find it online and I'd urge you to seek it out. But guess what - Kenzo Peace Vintage Edition was created by the perfumer Annick Menardo, as was... Bvlgari Black. In truth, it's just another 'lite' version of my favourite so there's no surprise that I like it.
All of this means that Midnight in Paris feels lacking in something. It has that black tea and vanilla accord which works perfectly well on its own, and which obviously works for me, but it could support something else - another note to set it apart and make it feel more special and a bit less 'safe'.
[by ANDREW]
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