Friday 24 June 2011

Planet of the Oud: PART ONE


I'm loath to admit it but the whole oud explosion passed me by somewhat.  And I'm not sure why.  I like Yves Saint Laurent's M7 well enough and the noble rot of agarwood is a particularly pleasing thought but I suppose it was the sheer number of oud scents out there that stumped me, really.  I couldn't smell the wood for the trees, so to speak.

Then on a recent trip to my local 99p Store, I noticed a strange offering amongst the air fresheners.  In a bold green can emblazoned with arabic text, there was an oud scented Airwick aerosol spray.  Obviously a Middle Eastern import, I snapped up the remaining few. And I was very glad that I did.  "However," I thought.  "You can't base an appreciation of oud on a pleasant, woody aerosol room spray, Andrew.  It's time to embark on a journey through the crowded world of oud for real..."

I started with Tom Ford Private Blend Oud Wood.  Like a 21st Century Coco Chanel (remember, she dabbled in movies too), Ford is the arbiter of style and taste that some credit with initiating the oud explosion through his creative direction of M7 - so surely his Private Blend offering must be the real deal?  And yes - it's very, very pleasant.  In fact, it's nudged its way on my 'To Buy' list - as long as I can find it heavily discounted.  It's a kinder, more polite M7 - less heavy-handed and medicinal.  But still rich and hearty.  "OK," I thought.  "So far, so good."

"How about an interesting oud combination?" I mused.  "Placed against something more familiar, I could probably pick out the distinct character of oud."  So I doused myself in Leather Oud from Christian Dior's La Collection Privée.  Hmm.  Good stuff.  Dark, sweet, animalic...  But rather complex and a little too self-consciously 'perfumey'.  I think I need to spend a little more time with this beast to appreciate and understand it fully.

And then almost as soon as it had begun, my oud journey took a major detour.  In fact, I think I was kidnapped by a large, sweaty, swarthy man and held against my will in some salacious Midnight Express perfume fantasy, like the Fry's Turkish Delight girl in jeans and a casual shirt.  L'Artisan Parfumer's Al Oudh is a fragrance dream come true.  It's heavy wood with an enormous shot of cumin.  It's big, burly and almost disturbingly human.  It's a while since I've been this excited about a scent...

So, I think I'll languish here awhile and continue my oud expedition at a later date.  I know I must tackle the ouds of Le Labo, By Kilian and, of course, Montale.  And seemingly a million or so more.  I'm girding my loins...

          [By ANDREW]

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